![]() I use forceps to avoid having to change my grip on the neatly trimmed pairs, letting go at this point causes a complete do-over and a definite time killer. Once I get the pairs lined up like 865 - B configuration I use forceps to hold them in place and slide the mess into the RJ shell. Straighten the wires one at a time with the basic plastic cable sheath cutter and then all together the same way. I make a 3/8" cut down the cable after untwisting and clip the wire pair separator below the top of the cable jacket. Avoid bending the pairs in any other direction except for straight out towards the connector - any bend becomes a "spring" when you go to put the whole thing into the connector holes. My method for RJ45 Cat6 - I use an alligator clip with a round wire feed to untwist the pairs, I NEVER pull the pairs to a 90 degree angle when separating them. I can crimp an end in under a minute for sure, and faster as I get back into the swing of it. ![]() For example, I'm a non-pro, doing a few cables/ends here and there, and every few years it seems I do a bigger job like networking a house, but then I go months between doing anything. That said, many years ago in the late 1990s I spent an evening watching TV and creating a couple dozen ~1.5' patch cables for my dad's office network, and that was a pretty good crash course. Since stranded cable is also harder to assemble, avoiding assembling patch cables means you avoid stranded cables. Patch cables (any short-ish run that doesn't go through the wall) are cheaper to buy assembled than you can buy the parts for (even with bulk cable and connectors and valuing your time at $0/hr), and the cables are better than what you can do by hand. Punchdown blocks on patch panels and keystone jacks are easier to do properly (especially for cat 6), and can make a nicer installation. It's much easier to fix if you find out it's wrong immediately, plus it helps teaches immediately what you're doing wrong.Īnother tip: don't crimp them if you can help it! :) ![]() The ones with indicators on both ends can be had for tens of dollars. While it might work for a bit, these wires are easy to break, sometimes in a non-obvious way because only a single wire fails. If the jacket is cut too far back, the connector won't crimp onto it, and the only thing holding the connector on will be the wire connections. You want the wires to go to the very end (red arrow), and the jacket to be seated underneath the block that crimps down onto it (blue arrow). This is basically the first time you let go since lining them up. Do this in a single cut, and make sure it's a straight cut so all the wires are the same length. Use a pair of side cutters to trim the wires to the correct length, about 1/2". ![]() This is much easier when you're using solid conductor cables (mainly in-wall type cables) as opposed to stranded conductor (used for patch cables). The idea is when you let go, they'll stay lined up and barely move (but don't let go until you cut them). Keep holding the wires flat, but with your other hand, flex them back and forth a bit to get them 'seated' (to relax in this position). ![]() Hold them tightly and flat with one hand while you do this. Try not to unwind any further back than you've stripped the jacket. Splay the wires out, unwinding them, and start lining them up in order as you go. Jacket strip tools are great for this: a knife works but it takes longer and you're more likely to nick a wire (= start over) or accidentally cut yourself. I'm not aware of a tool but I'll give my tips. ![]()
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